www.chuffster.co.uk

[Red Wine Racing]

As I walked in to the arrivals lounge and saw my mate standing there I new all was not well. He had split up with his wife and the bikes were not ready and his wife’s bike that I was going to use had been dropped (again) He also had a lot of problems at work as he was still getting a growing business off the ground. No big deal I said “I can get spannering and get the bikes ready”
So after a big piss up and Bri (African BBG) the following day we went to see the bikes. The bike I was to ride using a BMW F650 GS was not to, bad broken lights and indicators and a full service was all it required.
But the bike he was planning on using was a 25 year old BMW 850 that needed new cables, fork seals and lots of TLC. My first thought when I saw the bike was that my mate was winding me up, but he was serious. By Wednesday we were ready to go so no great loss, we had hoped to be on the road Monday but I had three weeks in all.
Just as we were planning to leave a problem arose at work so the early morning start ended up at 2 in the afternoon. At which point he turned his phone off and said fuck it we are now on holiday.
As we left late we decided to belt it up the N7 the major road from Africa to Namibia and try and make the border. It is a single carriage way with very few bends and we were not on the ideal bikes for spanking at speed we were travelling at 140KPH and it was getting hotter all the time. We soon found out that the old BMW was using twice as much fuel as the 650 so had to find a fuel can to strap on the back as we would not have got very far. I also suggested that we share the fuel cost as my mate would be spending twice as much as I.
We got as far as Springbok as I was falling asleep and nearly ended up in the soft shoulder, the few days of late nights drinking and long days in the heat had caught up with me.
Springbok has got to be one of the most boring towns I came across on the entire journey and we were glad to set off early in the morning and get across the border.
As we crossed the border it felt as if somebody had opened the blast furnace door, the heat was incredible. The Border Police thought we were mad with all our jackets and gloves on Even my light weight jacket with all its air vents in I was still sweating.
Our first stop in Namibia was at Felix Unite on the Orange River a resort for canoeing trips.
We liked the place so much we staid there for 2 days and had a 20K canoe trip along the river followed by a swim.
The accommodation was so cheap we decided not to camp it worked out at £20 each for dinner bed and breakfast in an air conditioned cabana.
From here while drinking loads of beer we planned our route using local knowledge of petrol stations and dirt roads.
So on Saturday morning bright and early we eat breakfast and were met by the manager who gave us some fruit to take on our journey and to wish us well.
So we set off in search of our first dirt road.
My mate has had some experience with African dirt roads so he had some idea of what to expect but to be honest I was getting more and more apprehensive as the dirt got closer.
As we hit the dirt I had slowed down to a crawl partly out of nerves and mostly so I could see where I was going.
Pea hit the dirt at about 80kph I hit it at 40kph and slowly wound it up. The wind was head on so I had to hang back about a mile but it was not long before we were cruising at 100kph the road was long and straight not very bumpy with some ruts and we were thinking this is going to be easy. I nearly went straight past the first turn off as I could not see it for the dust. But Pea was sitting there waiting. We both entered the road for Ai Ais which was to be our first refuelling stop after only 1k we hit deep sand we both reacted wrongly and started to slow down tank slapping to a halt. We could not tell how far this went but decided to carry on at a slower pace.
We settled in at about 20kph wobbling and sliding for about 20K we were knackered and stopped at a T junction for a drink of hot water and a map check. Not a lot of good as this road was not on our maps. We agreed that we should turn left we soon ended up in a twisty mountain pass and met up with oncoming traffic (our first in 2 hours)
We arrived at Ai Ais to find a government run Tourist Park at the end of the Fish River Canyon full of big 4x4 with trailers loaded up with dirt and quad bikes.
After chatting to a few of the natives then refuelling both us and the bikes we headed off back the way we came to the T junction and up to the start of fish river canyon as the morning turned to afternoon the wind had risen and was blowing a steady cross wind which enabled me to follow close behind and even side by side as our confidence grew and the road widened you could see for miles when a vehicle approached as you would first see there dust cloud.
At fish river canyon we did the tourist bit and took a few scenic picks of the canyon and then decided to find somewhere to either camp or B&B. We had been recommended a place called the Canyon Roadhouse which was about 60K ride.
We were having so much fun that we decided to have a couple of beers and some food then refuel and head on to Keetmanshoop.
It was about 250K to Keetmanshoop
We arrived at Keetmanshoop late in the afternoon road around the town and decided to find somewhere to camp.
Being old hands at camping we thought it would be great. It was not it was so hot lying in a tent sweating more than if you had been working out in the gym. Also we were near a town and had to keep the mossy nets closed even then we were bitten to pieces by the morning and were applying antihistamine cream in large amounts to various parts of our body’s
As it was getting hotter the further north we got, we both agreed that we would only camp again if it was absolutely necessary.
Sunday morning we got up early did not bother with food just got going before the sun got to hot as we wanted to make Sossusvlei in one day.
We did not quite make it after about 450K we were to tired to ride any further some of the roads were very smooth for a dirt road but some were more taxing with deep ruts and deep gravel. The colours as well as texture of the dirt roads were changing all the time, from reds, browns, black and white.
We settled for a small town on route called Maltahohe. We were welcomed at the local hotel by the owner who insisted we joined him and his brother for a Bri
The owner his brother and a few local farmers who took great pride in feeding us the best tasting meets shot recently on one or the others farm.
They had been drinking most of the day (pints of larger followed by whiskey chasers) and were very drunk it was very tempting to get plastered with them as we were having a great time but knew that if we did we would not get up early enough to head on to Sossusvlei as the temperature in the afternoon was close to 40 deg.
It was only about 150k to Sossusvlei but the roads were quite twisty and slow going there was a very steep and twisty mountain pass that was quite entertaining on fully loaded bikes.
We stayed just out side Sossusvlei in a place called desert camp, a new camp with permanent tents with built in showers out door kitchen even a small bar and pool.
All there was, was 20 or so of these tent like buildings in the middle of nowhere. We unloaded the bikes and road back to the gates at Sossusvlei where we managed to buy some meat and passes for the morning so we could ride up to dunes first thing in the morning.
When we returned the meet was stuffed in the fridge a few beers were downed and we crashed, the temp was now well in to the 40 deg in the shade.
As the sun went down we got out the beers and got cooking the meat.
Sitting on the porch looking up at the clearest sky I have ever seen the stars the brightest I have ever seen. During the day it’s very quiet but at night the noise of the insects is almost deafening at first but becomes quite relaxing after a while.
We had planned to head on up to Widhoek(capital of Namibia) in the morning but had been told that there had been severe flooding, 65mm of rain an hour and a lot of there dirt roads would be trouble.
So we decided to turn round and head back via a different route.
In the morning we were up at 6 and got to the gates of Sossusvlei just as they were opening we road the 65K on a newly tarred road to the dunes in expectation of something quite fantastic as every one had said that it was a beautiful place and you can not drive on by with out doing the trip to the dunes.
On arrival we had to fork out for a 5k 4x4 bus ride to the dunes just to see a lot of sand there were all these mad hikers walking around in the morning sun climbing sand dunes. After 5minutes we looked at each other and fuck this lets get riding.
We belted it back up this tar road fuelled up went back to the desert camp loaded up paid up and pissed off.
We decided it was about 350K to Aus and would try and make it there for the night.
It was now about 9oclock and the temperature was climbing we set off on some pretty bad roads quite bumpy with ruts and deep gravel and the going was scary and slow the only way to ride was as fast as you could dare go to stop the bikes from sinking and stopping was an experience in its self. It was not to dusty or windy so we were riding quite close together Pea up in front spooked a small group of wild pig who started running along side me I tried to slow down to look at them and nearly lost the front end by the time I had sorted myself out they had turned left and pissed off. Little bit further down the road we spooked some gemsbok (a large horse like looking animal with 1m long horns) 3 of them ran across in front of us one of them jumping a 1m high fence the other 2 running straight in to it and falling over, they then ran along the fence one then turned in to the fence again and stumbled the other ran in front of me and in to the fence on the other side of the road the fallen gemsbok then ran across the road to join its pal but trouble was I was in its way locking the back wheel up in a panic the thing ran past me missing me by may be a foot or 2 it seemed like inches at the time managed to keep the bike upright and got going again after a couple of hours we stopped for a rest and some water but the 4 2litre bottles of water that had been in the freezer the night before loaded on the back of my bike were gone they must of fallen off during the encounter with the gemsbok
We had no real choice other than to carry on we had seen other vehicles on the road well one actually a little bit concerned and thirsty. The thought of breaking down or crashing was a little bit more prominent in my thoughts than before. We headed on we had to take a small detour for fuel and about 2hrs later we arrived at a small one street town called Helmeringhausen where refuelled rested then headed for Aus the road was a great improvement to the first part of the days riding and we were able to get up some good speed our confidence was growing now we felt that if we could handle what we have just been through anything else would be a breeze we were cruising now at 140K on a long wide red and dusty road. I had to let Pea get well ahead as the dust was so fine, if I got to close I could not see the ground let alone anything else.
We were even getting cocky and deliberately riding in and out of the deep stuff.
I had found it very hard to change my riding style being more used to racing on tarmac than riding on loose gravel but was learning fast.
Arriving quite late at Aus another popular Namibian tourist venue we had trouble finding a place to stay.
We eventually found diner B & B at a place called Klein aus Vista (www.namibhorses.com) Again we were made very welcome by the owner who sat himself down at our table to chat with us he was genuinely interested and keen to find out about our journey and help us with our plans for the next day riding.
And met us again at breakfast to wish us well on our travels.
Making sure the water would not fall off again we set off for Rosh Pinar a growing mining town. The First 50K was the bumpiest dirt road we had been so far after that the road turned to tarmac all the way to Rosh Pinar.
On arrival we decided to head on back to the Orange river camp as the town was full of migrant workers and not a lot else and the rest of the way looked like a fun road.
As soon as we left the town we hit dirt roads with lorries belting up and down them as fast as they could creating walls of dust that you had to ride through.
Can not remember how far we had to ride before the road to the mine forked off to the right and we forked left through a narrow winding mountain pass that led us back to the Orange river and a road that ran along side the it for 100K going was often very slow but fun there were sections twisty hilly that as you went up and down them it felt like you were on a fairground ride or an oversize motor cross track.
As we crested the top of one of these steep hills to drop down another at the bottom there was a little rivulet running across the road we had no real chance to slow down has it was too steep so we had to choose a path through and hope for the best as I reached the top I saw Pea hit the water and come out on the other side with out the bike I had to swerve and go to the right expecting the same fait as him but luckily it was shallower to the right and I got through ok.
By the time I had managed to stop the bike and get to Pea he was up and back on the bike we checked it for damage had a good laugh and carried on our way in what seemed like no time at all we were back on the road we started on heading back to Felix Unite. We were very confident of this road as we had ridden it already and were riding side by side at 170kph.
On arriving at Felix unite we decided to stay there for 2 nights and ride to Rosh Pinar and back again just for the ride but this time without luggage.
Another night at Felix unite we met up with a couple of Africana’s doing a smaller version of our trip they had ridden from cape town to Aus but not done as much dirt riding.
We had a good nights drinking and left late in the morning heading for Britannia Bay
On the west coast of South Africa Pea had a friend who was going to put us up for the night. We road as hard and fast as we could along the N7 to alleviate the boredom we took a turn off to Port Nolloth to ride through a mountain pass it was only a 30 k detour and was well worth it riding through the pass on some great twisty roads of the pass a double length articulated lorry flashed his lights and waved at us, we waved back got to the end of the pass and on to the straight then turned round and belted back through the pass overtaking the lorry again. Before we turned back on to the N7 we stopped for a drink, a few minutes latter the lorry pulled in and the driver asking if we were lost we laughed and thanked but said no we are not lost just having fun.
When we arrived at Britannia bay Peas friend was still at work so we arranged to meet at a bar in a near by hotel. We got chatting to another biker who was an ex club member called the heathens or hoodlums or something after a few beers on an empty stomach I managed to upset him I will say no more as I know I will only offend someone else.
When Peas friend arrived we had a few more beers then headed off for some food by which time I was quite drunk and had to follow his mate down a dirt road with a dark visor, luckily it was only a short road we stopped for food and some more beers by which time I was feeling pissed as a fart and pulling wheelies riding the wrong way round roundabouts and generally being stupid arrived at my mates place only to start on the wine. We drank our selves stupid and spent the next day regretting it. Only to get just as drunk the Next night but this time we did not have to go out on the bikes.
H had been out and bought loads of food and drink and we had a bri on the stoop (BBQ on the porch) spent most of the next day in bed again short walk on the beach then back to Cape Town via Langebaan west coast national park where we rode along with a flock of young ostriches.
It was quite funny as we turned a corner we saw this flock of young with one of its parents running along the tarmac as soon as the mother saw us she was off through the bush but the young just kept trotting along the road we slowed right down expecting them to turn off the road but no they just kept on going, after a while we started to ride through them they finally got the idea and turned off in to the bush.
In no time at all we were back in cape town where my mate was met with all sorts of grief from his business, so he went back to work and I serviced and washed the bikes then spent a few days on my own riding around on one of his Buells through the mountains and coastal roads then getting drunk in the evenings and eating far to much.
On my last Friday night I took Pea and his wife (they were now back together) a couple of other friends (Dick and Carol) who put me up in Cape Town and H who came down to Cape town to say good bye.
We went to a place called Panama Jacks a very nice sea food restaurant where I nearly got in to a fight with a group of Africana’s when at the bar they started slagging me off cos I was British, me and my big mouth said to the biggest one I have travelled some 5000K through Africa and you are the first arsholes I have met. He then knocked his beer over so I had to go and say can’t even hold your drink either.
It was one of them who calmed it all down and by the end of the night we were the best of buddy’s I left there in the back of my mate’s bucky (pick up truck)
Pretending I was surfing singing and shouting goodbye Cape Town.
From there we went to the pub drinking pints and some thing called jagermister chasers it was not long before I decided I had had enough and collapsed in the back of the bucky. Was awoken at mid day to be dragged screaming and kicking to the pub for a few last drinks before going home.

[Chuffster]

Nice little write up. Looking forward to catching up and hearing about it all. If you need help posting up pics let me know. There are various free sites you can use. I have found Picassa to be the easiest so far.

[Red Wine Racing]

Yep we must get together for a few beers

[Red Wine Racing]

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p98/RedwineRacing/Namibia118.jpg